Coriandrum sativum (Umbelliferae)
Appearance:
These entire herb garden plants make a decorative addition to any herb border - they may also be cultivated in pots quite successfully and will reach a height of 45 cms (1.5 ft). The lower leaves are fan-like (similar to flat-leafed parsley), upper leaves are filigreed and the tiny flowers in high summer are a pinkish mauve.
Description:
Coriander has developed into 2 distinct categories - the seeds and the leaves. Despite the seeds being cultivated and used for over 3000 years, the leaves were virtually unknown in the West as a culinary entity up until the mid 20th century; coriander leaves are now reputed to be in the top 5 most popular herbs worldwide. Once seldom listed as herb garden plants in information brochures, fresh coriander has come into it's own at last.
Known variously as silantro (or cilantro), coriander or dhania - depending on your country of residence - the leaves of coriander have taken the world by storm. Before the seed ripens these herb garden plants can be distinctly odorous, but on maturity the rich aroma develops.
Usage:
For the best flavour, seed should be freshly ground shortly before use. In Indian cooking the seed is roasted before being ground for use and the leaves are used either in a curry or as a garnish - or even both. Seeds are often added to a potpourri mix.
History:
The rounded beige seeds of coriander are best known as a flavouring for pickles and curries in both Europe and America. But in India and the Far East green coriander seed - or the fresh foliage - accounts for one of the distinctive curry flavours. The foliage part of these herbgarden plants is happily becoming a must-have item in western supermarkets.
A native of southern Europe and the Middle East, coriander used to be popular herb garden plants in England up to Tudor times. The early settlers in America included coriander seed among the beloved items they took to the New World, as did the Spaniards in Mexico. Today, coriander enjoys a wide popularity. However, among certain groups it still has mythical associations - the Chinese believe it to be endowed with the power of immortality and Jews include it in the bitter herbs prepared for the Feast of Passover.
Cultivation:
Coriander grows best in a dry atmosphere - in fact it is difficult to grow in damp or humid areas, and needs a good dry summer at the very least if a reasonable crop is to be obtained. Choose a sunny place and sow seed in situ once all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, sow into decorative containers and continue to cultivate as a container plant on an apartment balcony, sunny patio or yard. The stems are weak - either add a stake or give it a companion to lean against. Coriander makes a good Winter crop, depending on local climate. Where I live, a dry warm Winter gives good results and we indulge in many hot curries with coriander garnishing.
Harvesting:
Sprigs can be frozen or preserved in salt and oil; fresh leaf coriander does not dry successfully. The best flavour is obtained by using leaves soon after picking.
Thursday, November 26, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Herb Garden Plants - Basil, Sweet Basil
Ocimum basilicum (Labiatae)
Appearance:
Sweet basil herb garden plants bear tiny, white, purple-tinged flowers in midsummer and produce juicy aromatic leaves. A healthy plant reaches about 30 cms (1 ft) in height with good foliage. 'Dark Opal' has a gingery aroma, and when used shredded in salads adds a decorative air and exotic flavor.
Description:
Tender herb garden plants, several types are in cultivation. The large leaved, common or sweet basil, Ocimum barilicum, is the plant to choose for the kitchen with its strong, spicy, clove-like aroma. Dwarf or bush basil, O. mimimum, is hardier but has a weaker flavor.
Usage:
Companion plant to tomatoes, peppers and squashes and essential in a classic Italian tomato sauce accompanying pasta.
History:
An ancient plant from the Pacific Islands which reached England via Asia and Europe in the sixteenth century, and was taken by early settlers to America as essential herb garden plants.
Cultivation:
In zones with a cold winter, sow basil in early to mid-spring in boxes or in frames, or later out of doors after all danger of frost has passed. Start the seedlings off in an environment with good protection and temperature until they can be hardened off and planted out safely.
In warmer zones, sow directly into beds - thereafter thin out to about 20 cms (8 ins) apart or transplant. Basil seedlings transplant easily. A plant can be potted up and kept indoors to maintain a fresh supply of leaves until late fall, or be grown indoors in a spot affording at least five hours of sunshine daily. Good patio or window-box herb garden plants which enjoy a sunny outdoor environment.
Do not plant near Rue, Basil and Rue seem to repel one another.
Other uses:
As a fixative in potpourri's, used in bowls or bunches to repel insects indoors. (Bruise leaves occasionally ) Basil is both an antiseptic and tonic as well as being beneficial when rubbed on the temple for a headache.
Harvesting:
Leaves are best picked young. Mine seem to do better the more often I pick leaves off. Because I employ rotational planting I have fresh leaves from late spring to late autumn (fall) - and we use plenty. Bush basil can be kept in a pot in the kitchen for gathering almost at will. Although not quite as flavorful, it is still wonderfully aromatic.
Appearance:
Sweet basil herb garden plants bear tiny, white, purple-tinged flowers in midsummer and produce juicy aromatic leaves. A healthy plant reaches about 30 cms (1 ft) in height with good foliage. 'Dark Opal' has a gingery aroma, and when used shredded in salads adds a decorative air and exotic flavor.
Description:
Tender herb garden plants, several types are in cultivation. The large leaved, common or sweet basil, Ocimum barilicum, is the plant to choose for the kitchen with its strong, spicy, clove-like aroma. Dwarf or bush basil, O. mimimum, is hardier but has a weaker flavor.
Usage:
Companion plant to tomatoes, peppers and squashes and essential in a classic Italian tomato sauce accompanying pasta.
History:
An ancient plant from the Pacific Islands which reached England via Asia and Europe in the sixteenth century, and was taken by early settlers to America as essential herb garden plants.
Cultivation:
In zones with a cold winter, sow basil in early to mid-spring in boxes or in frames, or later out of doors after all danger of frost has passed. Start the seedlings off in an environment with good protection and temperature until they can be hardened off and planted out safely.
In warmer zones, sow directly into beds - thereafter thin out to about 20 cms (8 ins) apart or transplant. Basil seedlings transplant easily. A plant can be potted up and kept indoors to maintain a fresh supply of leaves until late fall, or be grown indoors in a spot affording at least five hours of sunshine daily. Good patio or window-box herb garden plants which enjoy a sunny outdoor environment.
Do not plant near Rue, Basil and Rue seem to repel one another.
Other uses:
As a fixative in potpourri's, used in bowls or bunches to repel insects indoors. (Bruise leaves occasionally ) Basil is both an antiseptic and tonic as well as being beneficial when rubbed on the temple for a headache.
Harvesting:
Leaves are best picked young. Mine seem to do better the more often I pick leaves off. Because I employ rotational planting I have fresh leaves from late spring to late autumn (fall) - and we use plenty. Bush basil can be kept in a pot in the kitchen for gathering almost at will. Although not quite as flavorful, it is still wonderfully aromatic.
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Herb Garden Plants - Dill
Anethum graveolens (Umbelliferae)
Appearance:
Most herb garden information texts describe dill as being herb garden plants with plumes of finely cut blue-green leaves and lemon yellow flowers with flattish heads in mid summer. Although this varies slightly from plant to plant, this is an accurate enough description for dill as a whole. It grows to about 90 cms (3 ft) in height.
Usage:
Leaves and seeds both contain a mild sedative, although the flavours are dissimilar. Dill water was a remedy for squalling babies 100 years ago and dill is the sweet tasting ingredient in gripe water. Its primary culinary use is as an addition to pickled cucumbers and gherkins - known in America as dill pickles. Dill vinegar is another popular condiment, made by soaking half a cup of dill seed in a litre of malt vinegar for three to four hours, then straining off the liquid and bottling.
History:
A native of the Mediterranean countries and Russia.
Cultivation:
These rather delicate herb garden plants have hollow stalks which become top heavy in bloom and may be knocked over by strong wind, making it best to find a sheltered spot for dill cultivation. Sow seeds in a sunny spot, thin seedlings out to 20 cms (8 ins) apart. Grow in place if possible as dill will often bolt into flower prematurely when transplanted. Current herb garden information says to sow dill in Spring when the ground warms up and follow with staggered sowings fortnightly throughout the summer to ensure a regular supply of fresh leaves. Where winters are very mild seed can be sown in the autumn (fall) to overwinter and provide a good early crop the following spring. Don't sow near fennel - the two plants tend to cross-pollinate and the resultant seeds lose flavour. The wispy foliage may be cut about 6 to 7 weeks after sowing and the seed collected when fully ripe.
Harvesting:
To get the richest flavour from these herb garden plants, harvest the leaves just before the plant flowers. Small sprigs wrapped in foil and sealed will keep for several weeks in the freezer. Alternatively, chop the leaves, add a little water and freeze in ice cubes.
Appearance:
Most herb garden information texts describe dill as being herb garden plants with plumes of finely cut blue-green leaves and lemon yellow flowers with flattish heads in mid summer. Although this varies slightly from plant to plant, this is an accurate enough description for dill as a whole. It grows to about 90 cms (3 ft) in height.
Usage:
Leaves and seeds both contain a mild sedative, although the flavours are dissimilar. Dill water was a remedy for squalling babies 100 years ago and dill is the sweet tasting ingredient in gripe water. Its primary culinary use is as an addition to pickled cucumbers and gherkins - known in America as dill pickles. Dill vinegar is another popular condiment, made by soaking half a cup of dill seed in a litre of malt vinegar for three to four hours, then straining off the liquid and bottling.
History:
A native of the Mediterranean countries and Russia.
Cultivation:
These rather delicate herb garden plants have hollow stalks which become top heavy in bloom and may be knocked over by strong wind, making it best to find a sheltered spot for dill cultivation. Sow seeds in a sunny spot, thin seedlings out to 20 cms (8 ins) apart. Grow in place if possible as dill will often bolt into flower prematurely when transplanted. Current herb garden information says to sow dill in Spring when the ground warms up and follow with staggered sowings fortnightly throughout the summer to ensure a regular supply of fresh leaves. Where winters are very mild seed can be sown in the autumn (fall) to overwinter and provide a good early crop the following spring. Don't sow near fennel - the two plants tend to cross-pollinate and the resultant seeds lose flavour. The wispy foliage may be cut about 6 to 7 weeks after sowing and the seed collected when fully ripe.
Harvesting:
To get the richest flavour from these herb garden plants, harvest the leaves just before the plant flowers. Small sprigs wrapped in foil and sealed will keep for several weeks in the freezer. Alternatively, chop the leaves, add a little water and freeze in ice cubes.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Irrigating your Backyard Vineyard
As I begin to write this it’s raining. It is an overcast gray November day in northern California. Since northern California, the Sierra foothills, is where my backyard vineyard is, most of what I am about to say applies to this area. When considering irrigation for your backyard vineyard there are several things to be addressed. Things like; how much water should you give the vines, how frequent should the watering be, how does rainfall impact the irrigation plans, what does water do for the vines, what does it do for the grapes? Understand that what I am going to share with you applies to vines that are 4 years old or more. You will need to treat younger vines differently.
Typical average rainfall where I live (Auburn, CA) is about 30 inches per year. For the average backyard vineyard, that is all the water needed. Does that mean you don’t need to water in addition to the rainfall? Well, yes it is pretty much just that. If the owners of home vineyards have a common fault, it is over watering. Each vine needs roughly 100 gallons of water each year. Here is how the math works out. I have 100 vines in an area of approximately 5000 Sq. Ft. or 720,000 Sq. Inches. The formula is: Area in Sq. In. X rainfall in inches = cubic inches. Cubic inches / 231 (cubic inches per gallon) = gallons. So… 720,000 X 30 = 21,600,000 / 231 = 93,506 gallons for the entire 5000 Sq. Ft. If we then divide the 93,506 by the 100 vines we get 935. THAT IS 935 GALLONS OF WATER PER VINE! If each vine only needs about 100 gallons to survive, why do we ever need to irrigate? If you don’t want to do the math you can go to: http://www.virtualsecrets.com/annual-rainfall-water-calculator.html and use their calculator.
Let’s try to pin this down a bit. Obviously, each vine will not benefit equally from all rainfall, let’s just look at an area around each vine that is equal to 5 feet by 5 feet. We will assume this is the area from which each vine will benefit from rainwater. So that is 25 sq. ft. per vine. Since we know at 30 inches of rainfall annually each foot will get 18.6 gallons of rainwater. That is then 465 gallons per vine. If the annual rainfall were to fall substantially below the average, we would still be in pretty good shape, water wise.
So, why do we water at all? Well, some people don’t, and often have very favorable results as far as the crop is concerned. I do irrigate some. Let me explain. The first thing to be recognized is that watering is for the vines, not for the fruit. Let me say that again because it’s very important. Watering is for the vines, not for the fruit. If fact, watering with fruit on the vines can at times be detrimental to the fruit. Should you irrigate heavily after veraison it can pump the berries full of water lessening their quality and possibly splitting the berries.
Because Auburn is so hot in the summer, I do irrigate to be sure the vines have enough water. When irrigating, you must "deep water" and only do it infrequently. Watering small amounts and frequently will cause the root system to stay a lot closer to the surface that you want it. Roots need to be trained to reach very deep for water.
I water once when the temperature has reached 100 degrees and stayed at 100 degrees or more for three days. I put 20 gallons centered between the vines over a 10-hour period. I look to do this again just prior to veraison. Then NO MORE water until after harvest. Within just a few days after harvest you need to again give the vines a good drink of water. I use the same method I described above. Now my vines will get no more water until Mother Nature takes over in the late fall or winter.
You need to consider and make small adjustments for any slopes you may have and your type of soil (absorbency). Stay somewhere close to this watering routine and schedule and you should be very pleased with the quality of your harvest, and resultant wine
Typical average rainfall where I live (Auburn, CA) is about 30 inches per year. For the average backyard vineyard, that is all the water needed. Does that mean you don’t need to water in addition to the rainfall? Well, yes it is pretty much just that. If the owners of home vineyards have a common fault, it is over watering. Each vine needs roughly 100 gallons of water each year. Here is how the math works out. I have 100 vines in an area of approximately 5000 Sq. Ft. or 720,000 Sq. Inches. The formula is: Area in Sq. In. X rainfall in inches = cubic inches. Cubic inches / 231 (cubic inches per gallon) = gallons. So… 720,000 X 30 = 21,600,000 / 231 = 93,506 gallons for the entire 5000 Sq. Ft. If we then divide the 93,506 by the 100 vines we get 935. THAT IS 935 GALLONS OF WATER PER VINE! If each vine only needs about 100 gallons to survive, why do we ever need to irrigate? If you don’t want to do the math you can go to: http://www.virtualsecrets.com/annual-rainfall-water-calculator.html and use their calculator.
Let’s try to pin this down a bit. Obviously, each vine will not benefit equally from all rainfall, let’s just look at an area around each vine that is equal to 5 feet by 5 feet. We will assume this is the area from which each vine will benefit from rainwater. So that is 25 sq. ft. per vine. Since we know at 30 inches of rainfall annually each foot will get 18.6 gallons of rainwater. That is then 465 gallons per vine. If the annual rainfall were to fall substantially below the average, we would still be in pretty good shape, water wise.
So, why do we water at all? Well, some people don’t, and often have very favorable results as far as the crop is concerned. I do irrigate some. Let me explain. The first thing to be recognized is that watering is for the vines, not for the fruit. Let me say that again because it’s very important. Watering is for the vines, not for the fruit. If fact, watering with fruit on the vines can at times be detrimental to the fruit. Should you irrigate heavily after veraison it can pump the berries full of water lessening their quality and possibly splitting the berries.
Because Auburn is so hot in the summer, I do irrigate to be sure the vines have enough water. When irrigating, you must "deep water" and only do it infrequently. Watering small amounts and frequently will cause the root system to stay a lot closer to the surface that you want it. Roots need to be trained to reach very deep for water.
I water once when the temperature has reached 100 degrees and stayed at 100 degrees or more for three days. I put 20 gallons centered between the vines over a 10-hour period. I look to do this again just prior to veraison. Then NO MORE water until after harvest. Within just a few days after harvest you need to again give the vines a good drink of water. I use the same method I described above. Now my vines will get no more water until Mother Nature takes over in the late fall or winter.
You need to consider and make small adjustments for any slopes you may have and your type of soil (absorbency). Stay somewhere close to this watering routine and schedule and you should be very pleased with the quality of your harvest, and resultant wine
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